Weekend in Auvergne: on the gentian trail
De Michellot
Weekend in Auvergne: on the Gentian Route
Published in August 2026 | Reading time: 10 minutes
Auvergne is a land of volcanoes, cheeses, and living traditions. Among its most precious treasures is the yellow gentian, this majestic plant that grows on the high plateaus and whose roots have been transformed into liqueur for centuries. We offer you a weekend on the gentian route, an itinerary that blends tourism, local products, gastronomy, and the discovery of unique savoir-faire. Lace up your walking shoes and follow the guide.
Day 1: Discovering Gentian Country
Morning: Arrival in Riom-es-Montagnes
The heart of gentian country is located in the north of Cantal, between the Puy Mary and the Artense plateau. Riom-es-Montagnes is the ideal starting point for your weekend. This typically Auvergnat village, perched at an altitude of 840 meters, has made gentian its emblem.
Start with a visit to the Maison de la Gentiane, a museum space that traces the history of this plant and its exploitation. You will discover the traditional tools of the gentian pickers, the root transformation process, and the economic and cultural importance of gentian for this territory.
The museum also offers tastings that will allow you to compare different expressions of gentian: aperitif, liqueur, eau-de-vie. This is an opportunity to discover how De Michellot gentian distinguishes itself by its finesse and character.
Noon: Auvergnat lunch in the heart of the region
After the visit, treat yourself to lunch in one of the local inns. Auvergnat cuisine is generous and authentic:
- Truffade: sautéed potatoes with fresh Cantal cheese, the emblematic dish of the region.
- Aligot: mashed potatoes melted with fresh tomme cheese, stretched like a ribbon.
- Auvergnat potée: a local pot-au-feu with cabbage, bacon, and sausages.
- Pounti: a country pâté with prunes and herbs.
Accompany your meal with a glass of Saint-Pourçain or Côtes d'Auvergne, and conclude with a glass of gentian as a digestif. The pairing with local cheeses—Cantal, Salers, Saint-Nectaire—is particularly remarkable.
Afternoon: Hike on the gentian pastures
The afternoon is dedicated to a hike on the high pastures where yellow gentian grows. Several marked trails start from Riom-es-Montagnes and its surroundings:
- The Gentian Trail: an 8 km loop (3 hours) that crosses summer pastures and meadows where gentians grow. In summer, the tall yellow stalks of the plant (up to 1.50 m) are easily spotted.
- The Puy Mary circuit: for the more athletic, the ascent of Puy Mary (1,787 m) offers spectacular panoramic views of the Cantal volcanoes and the surrounding valleys.
- The Trizac plateau walk: a gentler route, ideal for families, through burons (old summer farmhouses) and pastoral landscapes.
Along the way, observe the yellow gentian in its natural habitat. This imposing plant, recognizable by its opposite leaves and star-shaped yellow flowers, takes 10 to 15 years for its root to reach the maturity necessary for liqueur production. A reminder of the patience and respect required for this savoir-faire.
Evening: Gourmet dinner and tasting
In the evening, reserve a table in a gourmet restaurant in the region. Several Auvergnat chefs creatively revisit local cuisine, sometimes incorporating gentian into their preparations: gentian sauce to accompany meat, gentian-infused dessert, or a homemade cocktail as an aperitif.
End the evening with a tasting of the complete range of De Michellot liqueurs. Gentian as a digestif after an Auvergnat meal is a ritual not to be refused.
Day 2: The art of gentian and the secrets of the terroir
Morning: Meeting with a gentian picker
The highlight of the weekend: a meeting with a gentian picker, a gatherer of gentian roots. This ancestral profession is passed down from generation to generation and represents unique savoir-faire.
In summer (the harvest season extends from May to October), some gentian pickers agree to share their daily life with visitors. You will witness the uprooting of the roots using the famous "devil's fork," a tool specifically designed to extract the long gentian roots from the volcanic soil. It is physical, demanding work that requires an intimate knowledge of the terrain and plants.
The gentian picker will explain the strict rules governing the harvest: quotas, plot rotation, protection of young plants. Yellow gentian is a protected species, and its harvest is a remarkable example of sustainable management of a natural resource.
Late morning: Distillery visit
After the harvest, transformation. Visit a local distillery to understand the process that leads from raw root to refined liqueur. Key steps:
- Washing and cutting: the roots, which can weigh several kilograms, are cleaned and cut into pieces.
- Maceration: the root pieces macerate in alcohol for several weeks to several months, depending on the recipe.
- Filtration: the macerate is filtered to obtain a clear and limpid liquid.
- Blending: the liqueur is blended with water, sugar, and sometimes other ingredients to achieve the desired taste profile.
- Bottling: each bottle of De Michellot gentian is the result of this meticulous process.
Noon: Country picnic
For the last meal of your weekend, opt for a picnic in an exceptional natural setting. The Auvergnat summer pastures offer spectacular panoramas for an outdoor lunch. Compose your basket with local products:
- Dry sausage from Auvergne
- Aged Cantal and farm Saint-Nectaire cheese
- Sourdough country bread
- Seasonal fruits
- And of course, a chilled bottle of De Michellot gentian for aperitif
Afternoon: The volcanoes and the return
Before hitting the road, take the time to discover one of the region's major natural sites:
- Puy de Sancy: the highest point of the Massif Central (1,886 m), accessible by cable car and then a hiking trail.
- Lac Pavin: a crater lake of enigmatic beauty, nestled in a setting of forests.
- Salers: one of the most beautiful villages in France, with its lava stone houses and medieval streets.
- Garabit Viaduct: Gustave Eiffel's masterpiece, a spectacular metal bridge spanning the Truyère river.
Practical Information
How to get there
- By car: from Paris, allow about 5h30 via the A71 then the A75. From Lyon, 3h30 via the A89.
- By train: Aurillac station (TER from Clermont-Ferrand) then rental car.
- By plane: Clermont-Ferrand Auvergne airport, then 1h30 drive.
Where to stay
- Gîtes and B&Bs: the region is full of charming accommodations, often in restored farmhouses or burons. Book in advance in summer.
- Hotels: Riom-es-Montagnes and Salers offer several comfortable 2 to 3-star hotels.
- Camping: for outdoor enthusiasts, several well-equipped campsites by lakes and rivers.
When to go
The best period for the gentian route is from June to September. This is the root harvest season and the period when the yellow gentian is in bloom (June-July). The weather is generally pleasant, with daytime temperatures between 20 and 28 degrees C and cool nights—don't forget a sweater!
Estimated budget
- Accommodation (1 night, B&B) : 70-120 euros
- Meals (2 lunches + 1 dinner) : 80-150 euros per person
- Visits and tastings : 15-30 euros
- Fuel (from Clermont-Ferrand) : 30-40 euros
- Estimated total for 2 people : 350-600 euros
Bring a piece of Auvergne home
Before you leave, stock up on gourmet souvenirs:
- Bottles of De Michellot gentian to prolong the experience at home
- Aged Cantal and Salers, to enjoy with gentian
- Saucisson from Auvergne and potato pâté
- Mountain honey and artisanal jams
And if you can't travel, find De Michellot liqueurs directly on our online store. The Auvergnat terroir will come to you.
Bring the taste of Auvergne home
Order your De Michellot gentian and rediscover the flavors of your Auvergne weekend at home.